Friday

Btech 2014 Manufacture Process

In order to discuss my manufacturing process I will focus on one piece of jewellery figure 18. This neckpiece has been discussed as it currently is being rendered in the Rhinoceros program. This neckpiece was manufactured by hand and took 360 hours to create. The sum total of the time that was used in the weaving of the neck chain,was 240 hours. The chain has astonishing flexibility and shows none of the signs of weakness one would expect from fine unalloyed metal.

Figure 18


The Chain
When creating the chain the use of 0.3mm fine silver wire was used and woven around a 19mm wooden dowel. A dowel is a solid cylindrical rod, usually but not exclusively made of wood. In its original manufactured form a dowel is called a dowel rod. Using the knotting technique of weaving figure 18.1 the length woven was 45cm in 260 hours. The purpose was to use the piece in its present condition. However upon the reflection aspects of action research it was determined to experiment with drawing the piece through a draw plate.
Figure 18.1
Figure 18.2
The results achieved by this process of drawing the woven piece down were spectacular figure 18.2. The chain now resembles machine manufactured shake chain, though one can still visibly see the difference. One could argue that by taking the weaving a step further, there has been an elimination of the woven feel and style. However, the idea is to not only use the techniques of weaving as is, but; to explore the possibilities of what can be achieved by alteration.In Figure 18.3 one can see the weaving in its original state on the left side of both images and the change to the right.



Figure 18.3

The interesting point note is that the chain has a hollow inner core. In the course of the process of drawing the chain down utilizing a draw plate through progressively smaller holes has caused the chain to have a greater internal strength. The process of creating a clasp for the piece was very challenging at initial, but, upon reflection and consultation the solution was clear. The dilemma was to create a clasp that did not detract from the piece as it would have to be placed in the front of the chain. This means it would be on the chest and visible therefore it had to be a feature that blended well with the simplicity of the design of the piece. This quandary was resolved figure 18.
Figure 18.4





Bracelet
Figure 19
Figure 19.1
Figure 19 and 19.1 shows a segment of the chain drawn down to create the length required to create this bracelet. Though the piece appears simple it’s the complexity of the manufactured chain that should take centre stage. The bracelet made of fine silver and the clasp or simple design element of sterling silver as is the neck piece figure 18.4. This bracelet was again a result of the natural progression in action research. Where I constantly manufactured, reflected, redesigned and reverted to manufacture.

The DNA inspired necklace

This piece was woven with satin ribbon which has an amazing rigidity. The weaving technique employed was the knotting technique. Unlike metal weaving this satin piece took 16 hours with no technical problems to resolve.
The material coiled with ease and holds the shape very well.







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